A Birthday Among Friends in San Francisco 2004

By: Matt Talley


 
I have this thing for great cities. I love the swirl of activity, the mixture of people and languages, the sites, the sounds and especially the smells that are unique to each city in the world: London smells like rain and age. Seattle smells like the ocean and evergreens. New York City leaves your skin gritty and there is a lingering scent of industry: gasoline and dust. Basel’s air is filled, for me, with the aroma of roasting chestnuts in the street vender carts in Marketplatz. Atlanta is hot and the air there is full of the heat, pollen and industry. Memphis permeates with BBQ and the wind coming off the muddy Mississippi River. Paris smells of fresh delicious bread and wet dog. In New Orleans there is mold rot and decay in the air, but it is a sweet smell and not offensive. Colorado Springs’ air is crisp and clean and full of pine scent. Houston and Dallas smell of oil refineries, as does Los Angeles with a hint of ocean or dust – depending on your location.

I don’t want to live in a city full time and I just couldn’t see spending my life sharing a common wall in a small downtown loft with a garage band or a nosey little old lady. No, I just like to visit cities and take in all that I can in the time allotted there. I had wanted to see the San Francisco Bay area for a long time and I had a three day weekend coming up (I took off on Monday for my birthday. I REFUSE to work on my birthday!). Laurel’s best friend and former roommate, Emilie is from the Bay Area and it was decided that we would run up and see her that weekend and she would play tour guide and show me the sites. I was all in and shortly after the decision was made we bought two really cheap plane tickets from Orange County to Oakland. I picked up a small guide book and after we talked about a couple of places that I definitely wanted to see, Laurel worked out a great itinerary for the long weekend.

 

San Francisco as seen from a ferry boat in the bay.

 
Laurel and Emilie (Emmy) have been friends since they were three years old. They know each other so well that one finishes the other’s sentences and an entire thought/conversation can be passed between them with just a look or nod. Emmy once told me a story that illustrates their relationship: They were four years old and sitting in the sand box with another little girl playing one day. The other little girl was being mean to Emmy and Laurel took offence. She grabbed the shovel they were playing with and smacked the little girl in the face with it for her transgression against Emmy. It wasn’t a light blow and it wounded the little girl (Laurel is freakishly strong and it seems was so as a child as well). Years later Emilie was playing softball and this lady walks up to her and pointedly asks is she in Laurel Burton’s friend? When she replied yes, the woman ranted about the shovel incident and that the other little girl was her daughter and that Laurel had scarred her face for life. In truth the scar was just a minor mark on this girl’s forehead or cheek, but Laurel’s ferocity had left such an impression that this woman remembered her entire name years later. When Laurel and I first started dating I was worried about Emmy liking me as much as I was worried about Laurel liking me. Because of their love for each other and protectiveness, if one has issues with you, your days are numbered with the other. It is just a harsh fact of life. It turned out though that I love Emmy and hanging out with her. We can talk about history, psychology, anthropology, statistics, et cetera… and she has a great smart-ass sense of humor that is always appealing. I couldn’t have wanted a better tour guide!


Laurel and Emmy. Click in the image for a larger one.

 
We flew in late on Friday night and Emmy picked us up at the airport and ferried us to her mother’s, who graciously fed us that night and lent us the spare bedroom for the entire weekend. After eating and putting our stuff away, we headed to a bar called The Albatross for drinks and darts. The place is in Berkley and has been a fixture there for forty years. They had good beer, six or seven dart lanes, an assortment of table games and table tops and benches made from huge rough-cut logs that have been worn very smooth over time. It is dark with nooks here and there and has lots of character: my kind of place! We had a beer and played Scategories™ at our table because a dart league had all the lanes tied up. After The Albatross, we were a little hungry and Emmy mentioned a hot dog place, Top Dog, which was supposed to be good. Some guy walking out of the pub overheard us and said that Top Dog was THE only hot dog place to go.
 
It was a short trip there, but there was a line out the front door of the building. Emmy sent me in to order saying, “just walk in and yell your order out” while she parked the car. I walked up to the door, pushed my way into the closet sized space that separated the front wall and the counter. I looked at the overhead menu and yelled out my order. There was the all beef Top Dog frankfurter, the New York Style German frankfurter, the Polish Kielbasa, the hearty German Bratwurst, the all-pork Marjoram, the Portuguese Linguiça, the Italian Calabrese, the Louisiana Hot Link, and the incredible Smoked Chicken Apple (Laurel’s choice). There were two guys working: a dude with dreadlocks manning the grill and a large, very polish looking 30-something guy taking orders, yelling at people and taking the money. As soon as my order had left my mouth I knew that a mistake had been made. The big guy looks at me and says, “Did I ask for orders? Are you hungry? Wait or leave.” It was a soup-Nazi Seinfeld moment. The place smelled great and the people eating looked placidly happy, so I shut up until he called for orders. To the guys credit he took order after order and didn’t write a thing down. When it was ready on the grill, he knew exactly who had what and what the cost was off the top of his head. Just after I ordered, a petite Asian girl came in, ordered and stepped outside because of the crush of people inside. Her food was ready before mine and when the guy called out the order she didn’t hear it. A couple of minutes later, she stuck her head in the door. The bratwurst-Nazi was on her! He looked right at her and asked where she was. She mumbled something and he goes, “I was ready and you weren’t. Do you want to go home hungry?! $5 now.” She paid up and slipped away quietly. I was jonnie-on-the-spot when it came time to pay for our dogs. They were SOOO worth the wait, crowd and harassment! They were spectacular! Not in the “I’ve had 8 beers and it is 2AM” kind of good either. They stood on their own merits with me perfectly sober. If you go (you should!) then mind your manners, and have cash in hand, because that is all that they except, and enjoy the food. It stormed that night and Laurel and I laid in bed, listening to the thunder and rain for an hour or so before drifting off.

The front door of Top Dog.

 

Hippie Central!

The next morning we were up and out of the house in time for lunch. The August Moon Festival was raging in Chinatown that weekend and the streets were filled with food, kitsch and clothing venders. We met Emmy’s dad, Ron, there and he treated us to a HUGE meal of Dim Sum at his favorite restaurant. The food was great and Ron refused to let me pay for our share. It was a nice introduction to what San Francisco’s Chinatown had to offer. After eating entirely too much and saying goodbye to Ron, we waddled off to the parking garage and then drove to “Hippie Central”, circa 1967: Haight-Ashbury.
 
What was once the epicenter of the counter-culture movement during the Summer of Love is now a funky little street lined with shoe shops, great vintage clothing stores, head shops, coffee houses, the not-so-homeless homeless and junk stores. I enjoyed our little walking/shopping tour of the area, it had the same vibe as say Sunset in Hollywood, but the nearby houses were nicer near Haight. They should be: a small and skinny row-house in the area now goes for a million and a half+.
 
After visiting a little hippy history, Emmy, Laurel and I drove to the Golden Gate Bridge Park. It was an amazingly clear and sunny day and as we walked across the bridge, I got some fantastic pictures of the Bay, the city and the bridge its self. The wind was howling and the air coming off the Bay was cold, so we turned around at the halfway point and walked back to the car. Here again, Emmy was a GREAT guide to the city. She pointed out the Marin Headlands and we talked about home prices (something of great interest to me at the time) in Marin County and the social differences, as she perceived them, between residents of Marin County, Urban San Francisco, San Jose, Berkley, Albany and all the other little areas with small houses and manicured lawns that surround the Bay.
   

The Golden Gate Bridge on a flawless day.

A bronze of a sailor in Golden Gate Park.

   

It seems that every good restaurant in San Francisco has a line coming out it’s door at all hours. On our way back to Albany (where Emmy’s mother lives) we passed Gordo’s, a storefront burrito place. The line wasn’t too bad and Emmy raved about the food, so we stopped and just stuffed ourselves on a couple of really terrific chicken and beef burritos and as we were leaving customers appeared from thin air and the line formed out the door, across the sidewalk and to the curb.

After unbuckling our belts to give our full bellies some room and driving back to the house, Laurel laid down for a nap and Emmy and I surfed the Web for Alcatraz ferry and tour tickets. “The Rock” has been on my “To Do” list since I was a little boy. I remember a rainy Saturday afternoon long ago watching Escape From Alcatraz and imagining myself as Clint Eastwood breaking out of ‘the joint’ and kicking my way across the bay to freedom. While the former prison holds an attraction for me, who would have thought it was a ‘Must See’ for every tourist swooping through the Bay Area. Tickets for the next day (Sunday) were impossible to find. Emmy and I decided that it would be less crowded on Monday anyway, so we booked tickets for 11:00 on my birthday. After paying for the tickets, Emmy drove to a buddy’s house to pick him up for our night out on the town. Laurel woke up shortly after Emmy left and we got ready and snacked. About an hour and a half after we expected her, Emmy stumbled through the door, already tipsy. Emmy is tall, but she is still tiny and she doesn’t hold her liquor very well. Her friend had given her three or four glasses of wine and she was feeling it.

After pouring Emmy back into her car, all four (Emmy’s buddy Michael came along) of us drove to The Mallard, a bar in Albany, for a night of laughter, pool, jukebox tunes and drinking. Emmy and Laurel both got pretty drunk and I drove us home around 12:30. Poor Emmy had to be helped out of the car and was laughing and giggling so much that she fell/sat in her front yard. Her sister, Rebecca, drove up about that time to pick up Bella, her VERY spoiled, slightly pudgy black Chihuahua, and helped me get Emmy into the house. The girls sat up and ate Taco Bell (What else would you eat at 1:00AM when you are drunk?) and giggled a little before going to bed. We all had a really good time and the girls were so much fun to hang out with that night: Laurel was all smiles, Emmy laughed and was bright and happy and Rebecca was hysterical about Emmy’s drunkenness. A note about Rebecca: She is insane about Bella. She baby talks to her non-stop, buys her clothes and puts the dogs needs in front of her own. One should never tease Bella about her size or weight in front of Rebecca. One might get cut for such an offense, seriously… It is just part of who Rebecca is. Her love for that plump little dog is endearing!

 
The next morning was a late one for us. The ladies weren’t exactly feeling spry at the crack of dawn after their night of indulging. After getting dressed and nibbling on some bagels, we drove to the Tennessee Valley Trailhead, near Muir Woods so that I could see one of Laurel’s favorite beaches from her youth and so we could all say that we had at least done one healthy thing that weekend. As we drove in we passed a flock of wild turkeys ambling up the road near the parking area. Wild turkeys in California, who knew? We found the trail broad and paved in some places. It was only a mile and a half long, but it opened up onto a gorgeous black pebble beach that had crashing surf and bookends of jagged rock cliffs on either side. After taking a few pictures of the beach and each other, we all sat down on a piece of driftwood together. We were like 5-year-olds: we giggled and were fascinated by the pebbles we picked up and examined. They were polished smooth and most had odd veins of milky, rose or greenish yellow quartz running through them.
 

The flock of turkeys that crossed out path on the way to the Tennessee Valley Trailhead

 

The deer that Emmy spied on the trail to the beach.

 

 

The trail at the end of the Valley as it opens to the beach.

 

 

The rock cliff that borders the right side of the beach.

We left the beach and drove to Emmy’s dad’s place where he fed us steak and grilled chicken, grilled veggies and a desert of flaming sautéed bananas (YUM!!). Emmy’s dad was a terrific host and we stumbled away bloated and happy just before 8:00 for a bar trivia game at The Albatross. It is a game that is played there every Sunday night(it has been for the last six years) and draws a huge crowd. After squeezing into a table and getting a few drinks, it was decided that Laurel, Emmy, me and two of Emmy’s buds were a team. Then came the questions. I destroyed the general knowledge section (Alex Trebek is my bitch!) and we scored 11 out of 12 in the first of the five sections of the game. Two of our teammates defected to another team before the second round and Laurel missed round three and four because she had to leave and run back to Emmy’s mothers for something. Emmy and I got killed in the music and picture ID rounds (Could you pick the actor Peter Coyote out of a line up or could you hum the first 5 bars of a particular jazz tune?). Even with all that stacked against us, we came in seventh out of 18 teams. A couple of more games to get a real team together and we would have dominated the competition! After trivia, we played a few rounds of darts and I had a cider or two and were back at Emmy’s mothers place and asleep by 1:00.

4:17AM came very early for little Miss Laurel Burton! I was brought into this world at that time on September 20th, 1973 and for as long as I can remember; I have set an alarm and started celebrating my birthday on the anniversary of my birth to the minute. I warned Laurel about his, but apparently she didn’t think I was serous. I think the alarms and me jumping up and down on the bed singing “Happy Birthday to Me” made her aware of the depths of my birthday depravity. After waking Laurel “gently”, I called my mother to tell her “thank you” and I talked to my kids. I went back to sleep for a few hours and after I opened gifts (good ones!) and took a shower, we were off to eat lunch. Rebecca works at a nearby restaurant and hooked us up with free food for lunch. Because she is so sweet, had been having a shitty time at work and because she is Emmy’s sister, we gave her a huge $30 tip.

After lunch we drove down to Fisherman’s Wharf and I picked up our tickets for the Alcatraz Island Ferry. During the drive the topic of my kids came up which led to a discussion, from funny things that they have done to how I was planning and to black mail them both with pictures of their bare asses when they start dating. I joked about my son and his doctor once saying that he had nothing to worry about anatomy wise with the ladies and Laurel decided it was time to change the topic. I closed the discussion with, “Well, it makes a father proud.” and Laurel said, “Well it makes a father’s girlfriend uncomfortable.” Emmy then chimed in with, “Especially when the son and girlfriend are so close in age.” She got me, I admit it. We all had a good laugh about the “burn,” especially Laurel.

 

An arch near Pier 41 with a retired US ship that is used as a floating museum framed beneath it.

 
It was as short ride over to the island and the views of the city, bay and the island were outstanding because of the uncharacteristically clear blue skies. Somewhere in the back of my mind I remembered an American Indian occupation of the island sometime during the 1960’s or 70’s. I didn’t remember any details just that it happened. The sign that greeted us to “The Rock” had been installed over graffiti from that period of occupation. It read “Indians Welcome” and “Indian Land.” During a short film in a theatre near the gift shop, the whole fascinating occupation story was told.

The welcome sign for Alcatraz. Click on it for a larger image.

Matt and Laurel on "The Rock." Click above for a larger image.

 

With proclamation in hand, seventy-eight Native Americans landed on Alcatraz in the early morning of November 20, 1969. During the first few months of the occupation, Alcatraz was a rallying point for Native Americans from both cities and reservations. Island residents performed ceremonial dances and taught their children traditional art. Constant food and water shortages hampered the occupiers' ability to sustain themselves and dissension within the group grew. Alcatraz remained Indian land until twenty armed federal marshals forcibly removed the fifteen remaining inhabitants on June 11, 1971.

 

"The Rock" as seen from the waters of the bay. This is the same view that former prisoners had as they were delivered here.

 
We stayed on the island for about two hours, took the audio cell block tour (highly recommended), looked at the buildings remaining on the island and took in the view. That must have been the hardest thing for the inmates confined there. To look out of every window and see a thriving city, the beautiful bay and blue skies while being cooped up in a humid concrete cage, watching the rest of the world go by and being unable to join. Though pledged with flies, the ferry ride back was uneventful and after docking we walked to Ghirardelli Square for desert. Emmy and Laurel had a gigantic banana split and I had an obscenely huge and tasty chocolate chip cookie/birthday cake.

The Maximum Security Area

One of the "Escape from Alcatraz" cells.

   

The Mermaid fountain in Ghirardelli Square.

Access hole cover along the sidewalk near Fisherman's Wharf.

   
After a leftover dinner at Ron’s, Emmy dropped us of at the airport and we flew back to Orange County. I couldn’t have asked for a better way or better company to have spent my birthday with. I got to see San Francisco Bay on three bright sunny days, had a huge cookie cake, ate great food, played on Alcatraz, drove down Lombard Street, got verbally assaulted by a hotdog vender, fell in love with a chunky Chihuahua, got to see a part of Laurel’s past that helped make her someone that I love and I got to know some really sweet people. San Francisco, I came to realize during this trip, smells of the ocean, Chinese food, cleansing rain and newly cut grass. I hope to return there time and time again and have as good a trip as I did for my birthday.
 

A great view of the Golden Gate Bridge from a ferry boat heading back from Alcatraz Island.